Hue to Hoi An

This is a few days old, but I've been having issues getting to my blog from here.

Yesterday I arrived in Hoi An.  In one word Hoi An is charming.  It's a good representation of Vietnam as it once was.  Old run-down (some restored) french-style buildings with "modern" stores and restaurants contained within them.  It's definitely touristy, but it's very cute.  Tailors and shoe-makers line the streets- a clothes-horse's dream!  You can have your own designs brought to life, have your old favourites copied, or pick something from one of the many catalogues.  It's hard to choose which tailor because there are so many (streets and streets full of them).  But I think they are all similar in quality and price - cheap!  A little bargaining can be done with some patience.  I'm still not very good at this but was able to knock the price down a bit and think I got a pretty good deal (I hope!).  This afternoon I got measured for a silk dress, linen pants and top.  I pick them up tomorrow.  Jenny, I also picked up your request : )

These are the first things I've bought since arriving in Vietnam.  I'm really trying hard not to buy things because one I have to lug them around for 6 more months and two I just don't have room in my bag for anything.  Actually, I'm really trying to part ways with some of the things that I brought with me to lighten the load, but this is proving to be a difficult thing to do.  Even things that I could easily do without and replace when I get home.  I don't know why I can't let these things go and think that this is a bigger statement about my life.  It's just stuff, right?  But stuff I can't seem to let go!  In time, I guess... (fingers crossed!)

This morning I rode a bike to Cao Dai beach Hoi An.  It was a great bike ride that went through the city and along the river.  The beach was beautiful, soft white sand for miles.  Although it's warmer here, it's still very grey so there were not a lot of people at the beach, which was kind of nice.  There are some huge and beautiful high-end resorts along the beach - not something you would expect to see here.  But I think now that Europe is getting to be so expensive to travel, South East Asia is starting to get foreigners of all walks of life and income levels.

I had lunch today at a restaurant that sat on stilts on the river bank.  I had a Hoi An specialty, Hoi An Chicken and Rice.  Yum!

This afternoon ran into Matthais and Matthea, a German couple I met in Hanoi, on the street on my way to get measured for my new clothes.  It's funny how you keep crossing paths with people along the way.  I hope to meet up with them tomorrow.

While I'm happy to be in warmer climates, I was a little sad to leave Hue.  I felt really comfortable there and felt like I got a great taste of the local life because of Thanh.  She took me to the pagoda where she and her family worship.  It was outside of the city so we had to take her motorbike to get there.  This was really special because tourists don't come to this place.

There was no one there besides the monks and nuns (female monks) who live there.  Thanh took me to where the nuns' caretaker lives.  She invited us in and fed us sweets and gave me slippers to keep my feet warm on the cold tile floor.  She was so sweet with a kind face.  She's probably about 70, without any family and has lived there for a long long time.

While we were sitting there, a nun walked by and asked who I was.  She told us not to leave.  A few minutes later another nun came to join us for a while.  She was the highest ranking nun there.  Women have high positions here, which I gather is unusual.  She was also very sweet with a kind face.  She probably only stood about 4'11 (I felt like a giant standing next to her), with grey stubble on her head. She's been there for 50 years and for two of these years she didn't speak one word!  I've heard of people going for two weeks, but two years is inconceivable to me.  Can you imagine the ability to do that?  I can't.  It's pretty amazing. 

She asked Thanh how old I was and if I had a family of my own.  When Thanh told her my age and that I was on my own she told Thanh that if I don't end up getting married I should come back to the pagoda. Haha!  Even though I had no idea what they were talking about it was nice just to sit there with them.  They both commented that I looked happy traveling the world.

Oh and dinner tonight was another Hoi An specialty, Cau Lau.  This is one of my favourites so far.  Doughy noodles, with slices of pork and fresh greens.  What makes it so special is that the noodles are soaked in water from wells in Ba Le village - this gives them a sweet taste and aroma.  You can't get it anywhere else!

More soon...
xoxo